A guide to thru-hiking, multi-day camping and
wild camping Hong Kong's four trails
The Maclehose TrailThis is the Grandaddy of the Hong Kong hikes. An unforgiving 100km, 7000m elevation gain hike up and down some of Hong Kong’s highest peaks and through it’s most stunning landscapes. Beautiful beaches and coastlines, urban views over Kowloon, ridges, peaks, forests, jungles, reservoirs, grassland, monkeys, this 10 section hike has the lot.
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The Hong Kong TrailThe Hong Kong Trail. Easily accessed and with an elevation gain of 3200m, the least technical of the four, but poses a conundrum for the thru-hiker. With no official campsites on Hong Kong Island you have two options. Go light and batter all 50 km in one go, or bring along a tent, hammock or bivvy bag and risk it in a makeshift site for the night.
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The Lantau TrailA game of two halves, the Lantau Trail is a 70km loop beginning and ending in Mui Wo. The trail is split into twelve sections with an elevation gain of 3500m, the first half of which will see you climb Sunset Peak and Lantau Peak, Hong Kong’s second and third highest mountains then along ridges and through rice paddies before navigating Lantau's lesser travelled rugged south west coast. Take your pick of campsites, there's plenty of interesting options here on the Lantau trail.
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The Wilson TrailA dark horse, the Wilson is the most technical of the four. With relentless elevation throughout, this intriguing hike through a mix of Hong Kong urban and rural from the far south to to the far north is not to be underestimated. Campsites are few and far between on this trail, but for the purists out there, some creative planning, an appetite for risk and a good dose of stealth should safely see you over the line on this challenging multi-day, 78km long hike.
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Other hikes
Double Haven swim hike |
Preamble
The decision to thru-hike Hong Kong’s four big trails came at the tap down the road from Shui Long Wo Campsite at the end of Section 3 on the Maclehose Trail. Myself and my wingmen Steve, Welshy and Diarmuid were one day and one night into the Maclehose thru-hike and were soaping ourselves down after a brutal first day on the trail. A light on a head torch came flying round the corner and stopped a few metres away. A young man approached us tentatively, only slightly more fazed to see three naked, dripping men by the trail at this time of night as we were to see someone out running the Maclehose. The young man filled his water bottle and told us he was doing the Hong Kong 4 Trails Ultra. We enquired further about the race. He was running all four of Hong Kong’s big trails. In one go. 300km. No breaks. Unsupported. We told him he was crazy. He thanked us for the compliment and ran off. We dried and clothed ourselves and returned to the campsite but I couldn’t get it out of my head. I’d hiked parts of these trails many times before and knew what they consisted of. It was unfathomable that anyone would attempt to run them all in one go. I checked the finishers a couple of days later on the website. Our guy at the tap didn’t finish that race. Then again, not many do.
It was decided soon after the encounter that we would not only thru-hike the Maclehose but thru-hike all four of Hong Kong’s big trails. Perhaps not as crazy as running the damn things but hard enough what with the weight of the camping gear and supplies for several days. The Maclehose alone had been a year in it’s planning and preparation. The purchase of lightweight gear, dehydrated food prototyping, blister prevention methodology, practicing basic survivalist techniques, some reconnaissance of unofficial camping spots and regular stamina-building day hikes. I was also privileged to have found three wingmen willing to take it on with me. But now it was decided, we’d not just do the Maclehose, we’d do all four. Our Whatsapp group name was changed from ‘The Maclehose’ to ‘HK4Trails’ and it was on.
Thru-hiking Hong Kong’s four trails is a fantastic, rewarding and addictive experience but a daunting and a difficult one to prepare for. Hong Kong’s trails are well set up for camping along the way for the most part, and water can be filtered regularly, even in dry spells. There are some waterfalls, rock pools, oceans and the odd shower for hygiene and washing clothes. Most food supplies need to be carried but there are opportunities for a cheeky spot of noodles on the way. All of this is there on the trails, but information is patchy out there so planning beforehand can be tough. This website is intended as a one-stop shop for those who have experience of hiking parts of these trails but fancy the challenge of hiking them in one go. Or perhaps you are visiting Hong Kong for a few days and would like to do something different to experience the city from a different perspective. It will also be of use to trailrunners, such as our crazy guy at the tap on the Maclehose Section 3.
Each trail has the route mapped with the essentials; camping spots, food, water, vending machines and bathing alongside the elevation profiles and stages with these mapped on the length of each trail. Itineraries provided are from my own experience. They all worked out fine and you are welcome to use them but you’ll probably want to work out your own depending on how much time you have available. Part of the challenge is deciding on how many days to take for completion. You can opt to reduce weight by hiking for longer and further each day thereby reducing the total number of days on the trail, or go at a more leisurely pace, but with a increased supply weight burden. It’s a fine balance, and one that requires some careful consideration.
It was decided soon after the encounter that we would not only thru-hike the Maclehose but thru-hike all four of Hong Kong’s big trails. Perhaps not as crazy as running the damn things but hard enough what with the weight of the camping gear and supplies for several days. The Maclehose alone had been a year in it’s planning and preparation. The purchase of lightweight gear, dehydrated food prototyping, blister prevention methodology, practicing basic survivalist techniques, some reconnaissance of unofficial camping spots and regular stamina-building day hikes. I was also privileged to have found three wingmen willing to take it on with me. But now it was decided, we’d not just do the Maclehose, we’d do all four. Our Whatsapp group name was changed from ‘The Maclehose’ to ‘HK4Trails’ and it was on.
Thru-hiking Hong Kong’s four trails is a fantastic, rewarding and addictive experience but a daunting and a difficult one to prepare for. Hong Kong’s trails are well set up for camping along the way for the most part, and water can be filtered regularly, even in dry spells. There are some waterfalls, rock pools, oceans and the odd shower for hygiene and washing clothes. Most food supplies need to be carried but there are opportunities for a cheeky spot of noodles on the way. All of this is there on the trails, but information is patchy out there so planning beforehand can be tough. This website is intended as a one-stop shop for those who have experience of hiking parts of these trails but fancy the challenge of hiking them in one go. Or perhaps you are visiting Hong Kong for a few days and would like to do something different to experience the city from a different perspective. It will also be of use to trailrunners, such as our crazy guy at the tap on the Maclehose Section 3.
Each trail has the route mapped with the essentials; camping spots, food, water, vending machines and bathing alongside the elevation profiles and stages with these mapped on the length of each trail. Itineraries provided are from my own experience. They all worked out fine and you are welcome to use them but you’ll probably want to work out your own depending on how much time you have available. Part of the challenge is deciding on how many days to take for completion. You can opt to reduce weight by hiking for longer and further each day thereby reducing the total number of days on the trail, or go at a more leisurely pace, but with a increased supply weight burden. It’s a fine balance, and one that requires some careful consideration.
Camping
Camping is easy and free in Hong Kong, there are many official AFCD campsites on the trails. An excellent website describing Hong Kong’s official AFCD campsites in great detail is hkcampreview.com. You will find reviews and information of many of the AFCD campsites here. There are times however, that things just don’t fall into place or there will be several dry sections with no official campsites (a particular issue with the Wilson Trail). Sometimes you just have to pitch up and Hong Kong can be relatively forgiving of those that do. In addition to Hong Kong’s many official (and free) campsites I have also listed some possible unofficial campsites and wild camping opportunities consisting of mainly BBQ sites and beaches. If you do choose to stay at one of these sites, try and find a secluded spot off the trail, pitch at night, and make sure you clean up after yourself and get out of there early doors. I’ve never had a problem doing this, but if you are unlucky and a park warden moves you on, the best thing to do would be to politely acknowledge your mistake and find somewhere else. When the night time weather is warmer, you can ditch the tent and bring along a mosquito net and a mat or a bivy bag instead.
Water
Anyone that has hiked in Hong Kong will know fine well the damage plastic has done to its many wonderful beaches and coastlines. I have therefore not listed anywhere you can buy plastic water. Just don’t do it. There is no need. Hong Kong’s streams will provide you with fresh clean water and most sources at the public toilets come clean off the mountains. I’ve been caught short a few times and drunk straight stream water with no ill effects but to be safe I always carry a Sawyer water filter, an essential bit of kit for the thru-hiker. You can pick one of these up from hiking shops in Mong Kok. I have mapped the opportunities for filling up water on the way, either from stream sources or from taps at public toilets. Most sources I have mapped are available year round, at wetter times of the year there will be more stream sources and therefore more opportunities to fill up. Make sure you take some Aquarius, Pocari or equivalent salts in powder form. The symptoms of salt depletion can be serious and deadly.
Food
I thoroughly recommend buying a dehydrator. You’ll need to carry around 3 meals a day plus snacks for 3-4 days. Most of the weight from food comes from moisture content and you can reduce this weight by around two thirds by dehydrating it. Cook your meal beforehand, dehydrate it for a few hours in the dehydrator and stick it in a ziploc bag, then when you are ready to consume it, empty it into a small camping pan, add water and heat it. It’s as good as new, nutritious, and doesn’t come loaded with salt and chemicals. For cooking, a compact emergency stove, a small pan and three Hexamine tablets will cook anything in a few minutes. As much as I enjoy survivalism, the last thing you want to have to do after 10 hours solid hiking is collect dry wood and get it lit to cook your dinner. You’ll need nutritious food quickly, and this is the best, and lightest way to do it. I also make my own muesli bars for the trail by dehydrating porridge and mixing in salt, honey, dehydrated fruit, nuts and chocolate. You can further reduce your pack weight by planning for restaurant or kiosk stops for lunch or dinner. I have mapped opportunities for this so plan these into your hike.
Vending Machines
Essential? Probably not. But there’s nothing like a morale-boosting sugar rush from a can of fizzy juice between sections. You’ll be glad of it. Just make sure you remember your Octopus card or you’ll be licking the outside of the machine.
Hygiene
There are a few opportunities on the trails for a refreshing dip in a rock pool, waterfall or the sea. Take these opportunities when you can as they are few and far between. I only carry one change of clothes, so wash your clothes with soap at public toilets when you can, hang them off your rucksack to dry as you hike, or leave them overnight to dry at your campsite.
Toilets
I have only mapped public toilets that offer water sources. If you are coy about going to the toilet in the jungle then maybe thru-hiking just isn’t for you. Most campsites have toilets and there are plenty of public toilets on the way if that’s really your thing.
Best times to thru-hike in Hong Kong
October to December are slightly cooler, drier and less humid and should still have a good amount of flowing streams from the summer rains. These months are ideal for taking on the bigger trails. January to March can be a bit cold, especially at night in the New Territories where single figures are not unknown. It’s also sometimes wet but even so, the streams won’t be flowing at full capacity so water may be scarce. April and May it’s beginning to get hotter, the weather is unpredictable. Sometimes being able to get three or four straight days without a torrential downpour or a thunderstorm at this time can be difficult. The summer months June to September are definitely not recommended. It’s hot, humid and thundery and the temperature rarely drops below 30 degrees, even at night. Typhoons are hammering Hong Kong with increasing regularity and strength. In addition, people die from heat stroke all the time in Hong Kong hiking in the summer. We took on the Wilson in June, and in 34 degree heat it was far from pleasant, but doable with minimal kit and the correct preparation.